Thursday, February 29, 2024

Febrilary

The end of February has been a momentous time these last several years* -- it's the end of austral summer and most contracts in Antarctica.  As my first seasonal gig it set the timeline of October - February.  So this time of year means a return to green grass and grocery stores and, if you know what's good for you, glaciers.  Four years ago (previous Leap Day), a friend and I hiked up the Rees River valley in New Zealand.  The sunny days were almost painfully beautiful; we also spent a day at a refuge hut playing cards with our ten new best friends while waiting out a deluge of rain.

*this is the ninth time; my near-decade of seasonal life paused for a year back in Michigan, but don't worry, I still had a temporary food service job that fluctuated with seasonal tourism, and regularly involved cleaning bits of dough and canned tuna out of the sink.

The following year was when covid threw a wrench in everyone's plans, threatening plague and breaking down society.  I couldn't go to Antarctica, so I sought escape in northern Alaska.  A few months of burger flipping and truckers ranting about climate change hoax passed surprisingly quickly.  Despite the sense of the world collapsing, a friend and I decided to tie a bow on our Arctic winter with a ski-road-trip to Denali and Homer.  Much like my first season way south, I thought way north would be a one-timer, but the endearing familiarity of decrepit infrastructure and lackluster food combined with stunning scenery and unique recreational opportunities reeled me back in.

Some coworkers live here year-round, but I stuck to my usual cycle.  Four months is a good amount of time to thoroughly enjoy a place but not grow too discontent with repeatedly jamming a giant pipe cleaner into the fryer oil drainpipe to dislodge carbonized old hunks of chicken.  Four months is also when you qualify for a sizable bonus.  So once I reached that date, another friend and I headed to ski in Denali and I gave winter camping a try.

In partial honor of a significant birthday, last year involved a great deal of travel.  The end of February found me, finally, back in Michigan, to thoroughly wash my socks and dream up what would come next.  An apartment! Unlimited avocados and fresh pastries! A dating pool > 5! Swimming laps at a pool!  But, best laid plans, or whatever Bobby said...

It's the end of February and, as usual, it's about time to pack up, take a long flight, and do some fun stuff.  I will visit a glacier -- in the Alps! -- with more than a friend for company.


Crossing the frozen Koyukuk to climb up to tree line on the base of Coldfoot


Headed north past Sukakpak to our company's perfect little cabin on the edge of Gates of the Arctic National Park


Jace and Lars did the cooking while I blazed a trail on skis


Boos!


The Koyukuk winding south


Looking back down on camp 


The iPhone SE is not known for its photography, particularly in low light, but there's a smattering of aurora


Today's murder mystery on the trail: who dumped the body?!  Will they senselessly kill again?!




Monday, February 19, 2024

The Short Month

You can, alas, ski too much.  Or rather, if you ski for three hours and then go to work several days in a row, you will likely grow quite fatigued.  But it's tough to let warm days go by without enjoying the snow.  The sun has rebounded with shocking speed, we've traded pink-fringed sunset mountaintops for bright midday glare, and (lately) you don't even really need a jacket.  A few of us crossed the frozen Koyukuk to snowshoe-flail a path up the base of Coldfoot Mountain, and upon return found a bit of slush in our footprints.

We've started meeting in one coworker's room to listen to jazz and drink home brewed blackberry hooch.  Club 26 features a string of xmas lights and a few fake succulents for ambience.  Tonight we burned incense and pretended it was sophisticated cigarette smoke.  We're also planning a "funeral" for a departing coworker, to celebrate her time here, to have an excuse for a good dinner and party, to maybe read aloud some poetry and build a small igloo of ice blocks that another coworker has been carefully molding and stockpiling.

Aaaaaand...I'm getting pretty jazzed to go to France.  In about three weeks I'll leave this diesel-soaked boreal paradise of endless deep-fried delights, and have a crack at la vie en rose.


snowshoe crew


some aurora super solid for sure


Overflow on the creek -- not because it's warm, but the weight of the ice is squishing it out the edge


It's back, baby!


on the plateau