Can it really be Alaska Season 6?

I have a new niece/her name is Petrisse/she's last but not least/and generally at peace/with her toes cutely creased 

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After a cold wet spring, Michigan steamed into the upper-80s and everything bloomed, redbud and dogwood and new-green leaves.  I realized my bike might be child-sized, given that my knees are bent when pedaling.  And my parents continue to age gracefully on past their seventh decade.

It feels foolish leaving Michigan on the cusp of summer, but there are compensations in Alaska.  Morels!  Glaciers!  Orcas!  Coworkers who gather to spontaneously sing songs from "The Nightmare Before Christmas!"  And being paid to cook and eat large amounts of filet mignon and chocolate cake.

It has been pleasant settling back in at the Backcountry Lodge.  Arborists came and cut down quite a few trees infested with bark beetles, which means my tent is much sunnier this year.  And a comfy old armchair and new curtain make things even cozier.  I have a cashew container for a pee jar, and sleep well next to the creek, with the exception of a moose crunching branches a few feet away the other night.  

Even though we poop in outhouses, we most certainly are not "roughing it."  But it's fun to joke about rugged conditions in the ba'country.  Both of our red wines are lackluster, and I had to make my own mayonnaise as we're still bringing in supplies, but otherwise life is pretty good.

Glassy day on Skilak Lake

Skilak Glacier and lagoon

Sea lions in Resurrection Bay

There were seven orcas, including babies!

Tent ❤️ 

Patagonia Part V: I Biked 1,000 km!

I wrapped up my cycling in Perito Moreno, a sort of way-station short on charm with the exception of our nice, big, cheap rented cabin.  The owner was grilling out front when we rolled up, very friendly and curious about our trip, and made an offer when I said I was selling my bike.

It felt odd unstrapping my bag and removing the panniers for the last time.  The unloaded bike looked scrawny and naked, and I was wobbly with the weightlessness riding around town.  I exchanged it for a thick stack of pesos and suddenly I was back to being a backpacker, my rucksack full of crackers and bananas for the time being.

Jace walked me and my giant bag to the bus station and I rode overnight about 400 miles south and west to El Chalten.  This is the hiking Mecca of Argentina: the Patagonia clothing logo depicts these peaks, chosen by its founder, climber and environmentalist Yvon Chouinard. I wanted badly to focus my attention on some strenuous treks, to distract from the new loneliness, to continue the adventure in another form...but the stomach bug was back.  I managed to get outside for a few hours at a time, but had to yield to my physical limitations, subsisting on instant mashed potatoes and spending lots of quality time in my hotel room.

I had also decided it would be a lot/too much hustling and flying to get to Ushuaia for an inadequate couple of days.  So, the end of the road, fin del mundo, will wait for another trip.  I headed to Buenos Aires for a few days of big city energy and warm sun.  The Manhattan-like crush of traffic, streams of people, endlessly interesting architecture and neighborhoods and shops -- and particularly sumptuous bakery displays -- were an uplifting endnote to the trip.

To sum up: Argentina is great, get a comfy bike seat, bring lots of Imodium, go with a cute guy who speaks Spanish, eat lots of pastries, and keep in mind the country is 2,361 miles long so you'll have to visit many times.

Rio Las Vueltas, El Chalten

Strangely charming mausoleum miniature town

I got to go sailing in the curiously shallow waters off of Buenos Aires

Tango in the park