Burning sun with golden gleam

Two remarkable changes this year are the increase in our numbers, and that of the caribou.  Never before has the staff dormitory been full in winter.  And the past week we've had several parents and friends visiting, prompting all sorts of delicacies cooked, game nights organized, and sojourns excursioned.  One benefit of a bigger crew is more day-off buddies, and a greater quantity of outdoorsy people.  There's always a significant proportion of "indoor cat" coworkers -- unsurprising given the temperatures -- but this year I actually bump into people on the trails regularly.

Thanks to Jean-François's gregariousness, we've expanded our social circle north ten miles to the village of Wiseman (pop. 12).  Coldfoot guides take tourists there to watch the aurora and chat with one of the longtime residents, a hunter/trapper/biologist/jack-of-all-trades.  We also deliver their mail once a week, in the form of a social call with coffee and the latest local gossip and lynx sightings.  Jean-François seems to have won over the handful of villagers with his appreciation of the beauty of the landscape and his Spanish shortbread cookies.

We've also been making friends with caribou(!) who for the first time in a long while are basically in camp.  There's at least one group of twenty that have pranced back and forth dozens of times between the hills and creek to the southeast.  I've seen them leap across the trail as I approach, fresh snow muting my skis, and encountered them pawing up lichen on a low broad hill.  They wandered right up to the sled dogs the other night, about a hundred yards from the café.

making our way up the Nolan mining road

We stopped at iconic Mt. Sukakpak, noticed waterfalls of snow pouring down, and then an avalanche on the right

ptarmigan on the Chandalar Shelf

Wiseman also boasts a yoga geodesic dome

Hard to zoom with the phone, but look at those cute 'bous!

Fill 'er Up

Impossibly hardy little spruces giving way to tundra; ridge paths ever enticingly winding; golden slant-sun splaying around tree trunks; fresh snow falling: such circumstances delight and stoke vitality.  There's a hint of nirvana, a sense of going onward to remain there.

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We arrived a few days before the reappearance of the sun, and so are on the upswing of winter.  I've never had a problem with the cold or dark, or gray skies, but I know the uncanny feeling of being at a remove from the world as well as out of sync with seasonal markers.  Here, freezing temperatures last from September to May, not everybody has regular hours or days off, and without some significant date -- end of work=>vacation or big shake-up event -- you can hit a psychological wall.  A friend told me today he just unwittingly stalled out.

Most vehicles here are either running or plugged in.  When we go up the road to ski somewhere different or stay overnight at the company cabin, the van stays pulled off to the side with keys in, idling, so there's no fuss about it (not) starting.  (Also not a lot of car thieves around.)  This takes extra gas, whether from the tank or the generator in camp.  We all burn extra gas in winter, just staying warm, and lighting the way to springtime.

On the way to Twin Lakes

crystalline eyebrows above Wiseman

I suspect part of the reason my friend hit a wall was staying up all night drawing this poster for our party

Caloric Wonder

There's so much here to be awed by, in such different ways.  I suppose the food is just another expression of the wild and beautiful contrasts that define the Arctic, like the dramatic swings in daylight and temperature, or the massive industrial infrastructure paired with the majestic landscape.  In just the last few days the kitchen has seen:

-homemade s'mores (shmallow, chocolate, and graham all from scratch)

-eggs hard boiled for 45 minutes

-moose marrowbone and dutch oven sourdough with historic old starter

-slop pile of aging leftover meat (for dogs)

-double chocolate cake, Boston cream pie, mantecados (Spanish cookies), lemon tart, walnut blondies -- all the same *day*

-mummified cranberries and potatoes lurking on the back shelves

-"You can leave that grease on there, I'm gonna use it." -Line cook Jeremy

I like being night cook because my day is so nice -- sleep in, read, ski, chat with friends, watch beautiful sunsets.  Aside from occasional busy periods during which I forget which burger gets which cheese, the only real downside is cleaning the fryer.  Hot, dangerous, and disgusting, every third night is a little tragicomedy that involves trotting with a giant pot of boiling oil through the frigid night to a little shack, climbing a ladder while clutching said pot, pouring it into a begrimed funnel to slurp down into the Great Grease Cube, then scooping, essentially, the remaining liposuction material from the fryer.  There is no feeling quite like unwittingly planting your foot in two-inch thick semi-soft lard because the shack door is frozen shut and you've only partially successfully squeezed past the rubber berm/"skirt" of the Great Cube.

Photo by Justin of our fabulous igloo, s'mores fire at left

proud baking papa

We got to go dog sledding!

Trucker table skeleton

Trucker table featured artwork

We saw caribou at the far end of the lake 

The Student Becomes the Teacher

Like a salmon returning upstream, suddenly I am the local expert, the one fluidly making headway through linguistic currents of regionalisms and code switching with a flash of my tail.  Bathed again in English, my accent spreads my A's broader than ever, and my tonal color palette is richly restored.  And there are so many inexplicable things to explain (the heater in the fridge; the one cook who avoids all eye contact and speech; the wolf hide being laundered in the washing machine; the popularity of sausage gravy and chicken strips; the Halloween skeleton now permanently seated at the trucker's table...).

Thankfully, Jean-François has swooned over Coldfoot's charms just as much as I hoped he would.  Our old warped door that caught every time it opened was an opportunity to meet the shop guys and borrow a planer.  Hours of industrial dishwashing are tempered by the indecipherable sassy flirtations of our Atlanta-belle hostess.  And breath already caught by the cold catches again at the snowy mountains illuminated by the first beseeching rays of returning sunlight.

Salon Night is new to me but an intermittent tradition here.  People read aloud, show a video or art project, and we share our responses.  Last night we had a fair bit of poetry, a brief film with Carl Sagan, and a ghost story.  There is no better day off than a long ski on fresh snow, unlimited free clam chowder, and debating the inherent limitations of signifiers while curled up on a giant bean bag in the dim glow of Christmas lights.

We scored seats on a (little) plane; here passing the Yukon.

Some solid aurora right off the bat!

We also ride in a van past Atigun Pass, to where the Brooks Range dissipates into the slope/tundra.